Saturday, January 15, 2011

Fashion shows at casa Portmanteau: Burberry Prorsum Autumn/ Winter 2011 Menswear

As a British brand showing a collection of coats, one must set the mise-en-scene of a Brtish autumn when the show itself is set in southern Milan. Crushing with drizzling rain and a fog-like rise of light, Burberry explains and reminds us of why as a British brand, at least one of the collection has to take on board the necessity to develop an entire collection of outer wear.

Starting with beautiful shades of strong heritage and characteristic colors in check, the fabric is beautiful - a great way to introduce a British feel.

Upward collars to keep the rain from drizzling down your back...

Slimmer, shorter and neatly collared.

The broad cut of the blue check coat in conjunction with the low neckline and single breasted button line reminds me of the late 80s in the style of wearing them open on top of a suit with a scarf laid, unused.


Duffel buttons, a highlight and favourited feature in a solid coat.

Lighter shades suggested a feminine impression, especially with the gorgeous slim tailored trousers and slim silhouette.



A lovely way to tie up a silk scarf streamlining the cut of the rain-proof, mustard mac itself.

The sheen and softness of this ribbed jumper had me lusting ad longing for a touch more than any other piece. Truly beautiful.


As I favour clean cut tailored coats, I am personally not enjoying the following pieces.

However, the brief style of wearable stylised duvets was followed by beautiful paneled fur coats - some of the most beautiful I've seen.

I have a vintage version of this black fur, leather trimmed coat.... I'm not kidding. I shall dig up a picture.


By far my favourite coat of the collection, I got too excited and didn't manage to take a proper image of it at the right time. with sections of fur perfectly tailored on top of slim wool felt high collared perfection, this Burberry piece is a piece of art.

The high back neck following into a fur neckline creates the illusion of spread shoulder long hair, doesn't it?

One of my favourite features of this collection was a gorgeously places neckline. A slim V, it's not too low and not to wide, wonderfully in keeping with the slim overall silhouette.

The shoes with the think soles... a flashback to the Prada Milan SS11 Menwear show. ANd I didn't like them then, either.

A beautiful coat, one of my favourites of the collection. Dark textured gray with black leather trimmings, a great length and fit with that very neckline wonderfully placed in the middle of the upper chest.


Please tell me it's not true. Body contrast to sleeves? That's a feature of the 90s I'd like to leave there, please.

Camel and beige Burberry signature macs, double breasted and soft yet tailored, a necessity at a Burberry show. With the lighter shades, a male version of Sinatra's "Bang Bang" and black fur caps changed to pony skin white black caps, the overall feel of a sun dispersed through thin clouds was felt.


In all its pride and glory, glare at the beautiful neckline placed in one of my favourite jumpers of the season with the detailed black and white pattern.


Velvet Underground's "Shiny Leather" comes to mind...

Two of my favourite pieces in the collection - The gray division of squared black fur panels either side set my heart rate running only to follow with a braided jumper in the same hues and material impression. If I was to buy anything, I would buy these two pieces.


Ahoy, glorious neckline.

The match of black and white ponyskin against a check white brown gray really doesn't work, sorry.

A wonderful final piece with the wow factor that just kept going and going. Pony skin black and white fur mac with a perfectly placed paneling natural pattern - well, one cannot fault Cruella de Vil to love just such a look, because I love it, too. If it came walking down the road, it would cause a collision of me and an unavoidable lamppost nearby.



And then came the finale that had all tongues of the internet wagging with excitement. Remember how much we love our coats? Their function is to be worn in the rain, when the weather is at its worse. It was only two days ago that a gentleman, a friend of mine, refused to wear a designer felt hat, stating that "Some hats are not for rain". Burberry has brought exactly what we needed: A wonderfully stylised clear poncho that goes on top of any mac you might wear, giving it a welcomed quirky yet tailored look and most importantly, protecting our beloved coats! This, without a doubt, get's the 100% thumbs up from me and I cannot wait to see these on Bond Street.




All in all a beautiful show! Thank you, Burberry.