Ankles are the beacon of light for change

Remember when ankles were the sexiest part of the body a woman could show? We were heading in the right direction in fashion. Hemlines were changing, and attitudes toward optional silhouettes fast approaching. I might be optimistic, and there is still a long way to go - but the recent nod and inclusion of ankle exposing slim lined suits and trou' for men are very promising in terms of a design breakthrough I hope will catch on.

Darren Criss for GQ showing how it's done in ankle exposing trousers

It wasn't that many months ago that at being questioned what my thoughts were on menswear in an interview by Amelia's Magazine I outlined my frustration with the fact that men simply do not experiment. I even went as far as to controversially state that most men I've had the pleasure of working for that far "have bigger mouths than the will to be experimental". I went on to say that "There’s not much room for experimentation for me as a designer, as they’re very specific about what they want and even half an inch down or up is a deal breaker. Hopefully I can be proven wrong one day."

A few days ago I had a few insightful discussions with some of my fellow menswear ethusiasts including the graphic designer David McGillivray and a few Twitter friends during which I came to realize that although there is a variety in menswear, the actual consumer varies from person to person instead of within situations as it does for women. As I said, when mentioning my upcoming collection including both womenswear and menswear, women comment "Oh, I can't wait to see what you've come up with" while men say "I hope the collection includes pieces that are basically what I already wear".

Although the experimentation is minimal and only applied in refinement of an already decided on style instead of a full blown experimentation, instead of being frustrated I'm feeling more driven to crack this nut than ever. I'm lucky that I'm still at the stage where I can establish and refine certain key pieces, design features particular to me and a fit I hope a group of guys will be able to incorporate as part of their already established style. Much like they do. In that respect I will be taking inspiration to their approach to styling and apply it to my approach to designing, different to the way I approach designing for women, which very much fits into the way women style.

I can't wait.

Furthermore, I can see the rays shooting through from behind the horizon. Where ankles pointed to a bright future of female fashion, ankles might be pointing at a bright future in menswear. I might not be alive for it, but I'll gladly join in with the first baby steps.

Fashion shows at casa Portmanteau: Burberry Prorsum Autumn/ Winter 2011 Menswear

As a British brand showing a collection of coats, one must set the mise-en-scene of a Brtish autumn when the show itself is set in southern Milan. Crushing with drizzling rain and a fog-like rise of light, Burberry explains and reminds us of why as a British brand, at least one of the collection has to take on board the necessity to develop an entire collection of outer wear.

Starting with beautiful shades of strong heritage and characteristic colors in check, the fabric is beautiful - a great way to introduce a British feel.

Upward collars to keep the rain from drizzling down your back...

Slimmer, shorter and neatly collared.

The broad cut of the blue check coat in conjunction with the low neckline and single breasted button line reminds me of the late 80s in the style of wearing them open on top of a suit with a scarf laid, unused.

Duffel buttons, a highlight and favourited feature in a solid coat.

Lighter shades suggested a feminine impression, especially with the gorgeous slim tailored trousers and slim silhouette.

A lovely way to tie up a silk scarf streamlining the cut of the rain-proof, mustard mac itself.

The sheen and softness of this ribbed jumper had me lusting ad longing for a touch more than any other piece. Truly beautiful.

As I favour clean cut tailored coats, I am personally not enjoying the following pieces.

However, the brief style of wearable stylised duvets was followed by beautiful paneled fur coats - some of the most beautiful I've seen.

I have a vintage version of this black fur, leather trimmed coat.... I'm not kidding. I shall dig up a picture.

By far my favourite coat of the collection, I got too excited and didn't manage to take a proper image of it at the right time. with sections of fur perfectly tailored on top of slim wool felt high collared perfection, this Burberry piece is a piece of art.

The high back neck following into a fur neckline creates the illusion of spread shoulder long hair, doesn't it?

One of my favourite features of this collection was a gorgeously places neckline. A slim V, it's not too low and not to wide, wonderfully in keeping with the slim overall silhouette.

The shoes with the think soles... a flashback to the Prada Milan SS11 Menwear show. ANd I didn't like them then, either.

A beautiful coat, one of my favourites of the collection. Dark textured gray with black leather trimmings, a great length and fit with that very neckline wonderfully placed in the middle of the upper chest.

Please tell me it's not true. Body contrast to sleeves? That's a feature of the 90s I'd like to leave there, please.

Camel and beige Burberry signature macs, double breasted and soft yet tailored, a necessity at a Burberry show. With the lighter shades, a male version of Sinatra's "Bang Bang" and black fur caps changed to pony skin white black caps, the overall feel of a sun dispersed through thin clouds was felt.

In all its pride and glory, glare at the beautiful neckline placed in one of my favourite jumpers of the season with the detailed black and white pattern.

Velvet Underground's "Shiny Leather" comes to mind...

Two of my favourite pieces in the collection - The gray division of squared black fur panels either side set my heart rate running only to follow with a braided jumper in the same hues and material impression. If I was to buy anything, I would buy these two pieces.

Ahoy, glorious neckline.

The match of black and white ponyskin against a check white brown gray really doesn't work, sorry.

A wonderful final piece with the wow factor that just kept going and going. Pony skin black and white fur mac with a perfectly placed paneling natural pattern - well, one cannot fault Cruella de Vil to love just such a look, because I love it, too. If it came walking down the road, it would cause a collision of me and an unavoidable lamppost nearby.

And then came the finale that had all tongues of the internet wagging with excitement. Remember how much we love our coats? Their function is to be worn in the rain, when the weather is at its worse. It was only two days ago that a gentleman, a friend of mine, refused to wear a designer felt hat, stating that "Some hats are not for rain". Burberry has brought exactly what we needed: A wonderfully stylised clear poncho that goes on top of any mac you might wear, giving it a welcomed quirky yet tailored look and most importantly, protecting our beloved coats! This, without a doubt, get's the 100% thumbs up from me and I cannot wait to see these on Bond Street.

All in all a beautiful show! Thank you, Burberry.

Fashion shows at casa Portmanteau: Dolce and Gabbana Winter 2012 Menswear

With a hint from the Clothes Whisperer, I once again was an attendee of my favourite kind of fashion show - the live stream.

The backstage frame with the distracting crown tattoo of the backstage hands-on, for instance, is not something one would have witnessed in the reality of presence.

After the essential first run of perfectly tailored suits came the first flash of red which ran through the line like through Steven Spielberg's Schindler's List.

Underwear models, tough and polished.

I was loving the quirky updated 50s shaggy gentleman's look, especially with the narrow point collar in fine check and leather suspenders.

Here comes the underwear. Yes, that's what I'm looking at.

What follows is a suit that takes David Lynch in one hand and Chris de Burgh in the other, then smashes them together to create, lo and behold, the "Gentleman in Red Velvet".

Hues of maroon and red with gray and black throughout, especially in thick stripes.

A hint of skater culture seems to have been incorporated in the impression of stripe separation, allowing for a lighter hue below the torso to appear, at first glance, like exposed skater underwear. Not sure about fit around the crotch area, though.

My absolute favourite look of the collection: the shade and shape of the trousers are immaculate, a perfect balance of fitted looseness of this particular fabric in conjunction with the tight shirt and suspenders and of course the boots.

Waiting on the staircase for their turn, the models get a last run over by the make-up and hair artists backstage.

Long cuffs in conjunction with the younger slim bomber jackets reminds of the rolled up sleeves we have been seeing in woman's fashion boyfriend jackets last year, but as with the "exposed underwear" it becomes part of the pattern of a single garment in this collection.

I am not impressed with the fit of 'trou in this case. Mid-tummy and low cut with a draping fabric? Nuh -uh!

Pulling the looks together and adding an odd shape of trousers with wide thighs and narrow, cuffed ankles. I'm not a fan. But the top half of the outfit is just what the girlfriend ordered from Santa for a stylish Christmas.

After gray and red, the Dolce and Gabbana stage presents the browner hues of gray with fur jackets, jeans and tank tops.

The wintery Christmas season seems behind us, but in fashion it's already preparing us not for this coming Christmas, but NEXT year's Christmas. If it was up to me, my partner will be a cross between the "Gentleman in Red Velvet" and biker in garters and fifties hat and square glasses.