Details at House of Holland

Usually I prefer to follow the impression a collection makes on me as a whole. However, there are details that particularly speak to me as a designer and others which make me cringe. Sometimes I come across pieces and features throughout a collection which I wish I had been in charge of so as to exclude those little details that would have made the garment perfect, in my eyes. Each to their own, of course, but at the House of Holland show this feeling was particularly prominant, most likely because I use so many of the features in my own pieces (the good ones only, of course ;).

The overal fun preppy tweed and colored print and tights, wonderfully formed collars, color combinations that should hurt the eyes but simply make you think "well yes, of course" and pearls in detail I appreciated as greatly as the sporty cuts and striped socks over University common room pool ball or letters tights. I personally didn't enjy the random lace, occasional double front skirt slits and the "intercourse" indicating lewd hand sign print on an oversized jumper was plain out of place - if not in the story of University students in layers, surely sartorially.

Love the pearl sleeves - in fact, I would don this outfit out and about if I were that tall.





This dress would happily find a place in a Lira Leirner collection - the back is a deep V-neck, too, none other.















Pink and orange? Well, of course.





Pearls, bustier neckline, tweed, length and shape - all very familiar with Lira Leirner designs in mind







All images courtesy of Vogue.com - please click the link to view the entire House of Holland Autumn/Winter 2011-12 collection

Portmanteau Fashion Week Favourites: Jonathan Saunders

Maybe I'm close minded, but I always maintain there's only one's own aesthetic one should follow in the process of deciding which pleasures of culture to share - at least on their own blog, surely that's allowed. My own, most certainly in fashion, are classic, minimalistic, neat and balanced - sometimes elaborately and intrinsically theatrical, but I don't harbor much love for the sartorially depressing reminders of the shades of the weather we are witnessing.

Sure, shapes should be explored, and silhouettes pushed but that doesn't mean I have to always like it. Unfortunately, this season there have been some painful silhouettes witnessed - remember the Chanel couture horror a few weeks ago? Despite the love I felt for many of the menswear Burberry pieces, their interpretation for the female figure was often merely that - and worse. Of course the figure hugging shapes were represented in the traditional coat line, however, the new silhouettes explored I could name nothing but "miss" with the gravity working its way in pulling down the corners of my mouth in disappointment. I'm aware I'm picking at the big ones, because I know it doesn't affect them, but that unfortunately doesn't mean I have been too impressed with the mejority of the smaller collections this season either.

However, some rays of light always shine through, and contrast more starkly than usual in their aesthetically and technically pleasing collections against the melee of gray mass that has spread this season.

One of them is Jonathan Saunders. Heralded even by Vogue.com as "one of the highlights of [London fashion] week", it's primly high necked yet flattering silhouettes in beautiful and young colors evoked a smile in my soul with beautiful William Morris reminiscent prints on solid, flattering structures and base colors.

All images courtesy of Vogue.com - click on the link to see the rest of the collection!

ShoePorn: Pointer Footwear - craftsmanship and sweet angrogyny

As most Portmanteaulings know, I like my shoes. Some bloggers like bags, some like jewelery - I like the foorwear that graces and carries our connection to reality. Whether it is an exclamation by Alex of AlexLoves shocked at seeing me in flats or having my inner demons agree that buying a pair of Prada heels is indeed more valuable in a perfectly logical way than eating food for a week, this here girl likes her shoes.

Despite the fact that 99% of said shoedrobe consists of heels, especially with the cold gone by, there are a a type of schoes the portmateau is so fond of, even beyond heels, that she becomes picky. The shape must not be too bulky nor round, the front slim, feminine yet andgorynous enough to wear with both trousers and a dress. Especially with the winter past and the feetfully painful London Fashion Week at our doorstep, it is truly not amiss to have a closer look at a brogue shoes specialty brand whose craftsmanship is all I and my fellow Londrinum fashionistas could wish for.

In comes a brand that I got introduced to by my friend, whose feet are so sensitive even flip flops hurt her (in my world the most comfortable shoes imaginable)... nothing but socks and sandals would soothe these feet. Sure, she wore shoes as well, but blisters covered her feet like bruises covered the princess on the pea. The fact that she found shoes that were soft enough yet appealed to the suffering Portmanteau eyes a lot more than socks-in-sandals, was enough to catch my attention - so voila, I discovered Pointer Footwear.

Although still relatively unknown, they're about to hit it big soon I'm sure, and I recoomend you grab a pair of those soft, beautifully made and shaped hand crafted beauties as a long life companion. I, for one, want one in every color! And it gets better. They have them. I pass over to them to describe what we can see with our very eyes and what our feet thank us with their bones and skin: "Pointer shoes are inspired by the classic and flirt with the now: the collections consist of a playful palette of plimsolls and stitched-down traditionals, best leather moccasins and sturdy boat shoes, fanciful ankle boots and crisply-collared brogues." My favourites are Marie and Elsie. But you should have a look at some of their other models as well. Fashionistos, it's not all about the androgyny, so get in there, there's male shoes to drool over on their site as well. If ever I wanted to be a guy, male brogues were definitely the reason.

Elsie - Shark

Marie - Off-white/ Navy

Marie - Oak/ Camel

Marie - Slate

Marie - Black (obviously - ha ha)

Elsie - Red (oh, my mouth is watering...)

Elsie - Navy/ Off-white

What I like about Pointer, though, is the fact that they're ethical, traditional and truly care about craftsmanship and despite all that it has no impact on the sleekness of the design. In their own words, pointer points out (sorry for the pun): "Pointer believes in comrades and co-conspirators, in inspiration and imagination. Pointer has been involved in supporting artist-led ad campaigns, creative point-of-sale displays and collaborative t-shirt projects, and in the publication of a series of Pointer Art Collective booklets". Considering how young the company still is, I can't wait to see what else they will do in the future.

While researching them I came across a video they've made of their shoe producers in action (click on the link to see the Production video) and I could almost SMELL the leather, drying my throat in its wonderful freshness (yes, it's all in my head). It is heartwarming to see craftsmanship still matters and definitely something I want to support.

They sell the shoes via ASOS (well, only men's shoes so far, sniff) and have stores all over the place, but if you Londoners would like to try them on (as I always do), pop by Bread ‘n’ Honey on 205 Whitecross Street, EC1Y 8QP London (Tel: +44 20 7253 4455).