Showing posts with label design process. Show all posts
Showing posts with label design process. Show all posts

Monday, July 12, 2010

Jessica Jensen - a dream of beauty shared

At exactly 00:55 I stumbled upon a tweet that led me to the Jessica Jensen page, and my mouth filled with saliva. I kid you not.

After a long stint in fashion marketing, Jessica finally put her beautiful concept into her own collection and label in 2008 and boy, am I glad whenever a creative mind escapes the clutches of office careers, and even more so when they bring to the world something like THIS:

From the dreamy, cloudy and mysterious images to the sparkling blue eyed brown haired models to the subdued background of a much wanted beach to the most amazing of all - the dream clutch.

No, I am not one of those bloggers who say "Look how pretty". This is literally the dream clutch, presented like a dream and perceived like a dream. I find it strangely coinciding that Jessica Jensen has not only chosen the same fabric as I did but also the same type of model! Needless to say I have my eyes firmly placed on that clutch and my heart wide open for Jessica Jensen. I am not a bag girl (we all know I'm a shoe girl) but I can really see myself getting my hands on this - even if it is to wear with the Puddle Dress!

As some of you may know, I am in the process of creating a dress, which resembles the natural phenomena of the ripples witnessed when wind sweeps across a puddle nestled on the background of city concrete.

Doing so, I am preparing strips upon strips of double sided satin - colored dark gray and semi matte soft brown. As it comes across the body, there is a lift which emerges bigger and smaller according to the sweep, tilting up and exposing the shinier, lower level of the fabric - the vertical surface, which reflects the light.

Very initial sketches outlining the distribution of the waves

This will be an addition to the Nature DeLuxe Collection - a collection which aims to point out and translate the beauty in nature we look at before us but which most don't truly see. I see myself as an ambassador for beauty, and nature gives us most of it - right there. It's frustrating how little people see but if they need a reminder - this collection is one. And in the spirit of this, I thank Jessica Jensen - for capturing beauty as I see it, and representing it as I would.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Blue Black Royal Mail Bag Stage dress for Gabby Young

Last week I came cross the London Plinth, the website by Katie Antoniou and she told me that she is a stylist for the front singer of Gabby Young and Other Animals and that she'd love to borrow a dress for one of the gigs!

Faster than you can type "Yes please with a cherry on top" I said agreed. Quirky and strong, with character and strong survival instincts, Gabby Young fit into the type of character and person that I want to wear my dresses.

Based on her preferences and the numerous pictures there are of her, I created her this the Gabby Young Blue and black Royal Mail Stage dress. Yes I can see the names are getting longer and longer, but it's necessary!

Since the fraying of such an open weave that is the royal mail bag is unpredictable, the dress turned out a whole size smaller! I will be adjusting it for next week's gig by adding panels to the back, but until then my housemate quickly modeled the dress for me (yes, in the kitchen/ studio), so here goes!

Plunging back line with 2 meter black net trail and soft cotton tweed lining with the same fine weave appearance as the Royal Mail Bag. Navy blue hemline and zipper, V-neck shape and molded bust.








Sunday, July 4, 2010

Iconic Royal Mail Tape Collection

Whether you are a fabulous fashionista or a practical bike enthusiast, interested in sustainable fashion or in owning a unique statement bag to carry your laptop in to work or that extra pair of flats to a festival - the Royal Mail Bag Tape satchels are as eclectic as they are show stoppers. Not too big nor too small, we researched into the perfect size preferred by a range of bag lovers - and used it! They come in a variety of colors, and are sturdy yet supple, lined and architecturally supported and structured with fabric tape and fastened with magnetic studs.

The Iconic Royal Mail Bag Collection was created in collaboration with the designer Stuart Bannocks.

Chose from a range of colors, click to get redirected to the respective paypal page and claim one of those fabulous bags for yourself!





The dimensions of the each bag is as follows:

Width: 35 cm / 14 inches
Highth: 31 cm / 12 inches
Deep: 10 cm / 4 inches
Strap Length: 120 cm / 47.5 inches

Photography: © Max Kropitz

Sunday, June 20, 2010

A week and a day with Lira Leirner


I have never really been much of a diary writer. I tried to do it two or three times, always resulting in a lovely empty book that had the first couple of pages covered in random scribbles. I have written regularly, especially in primary school where I had to write an essay, play, story or whatever took my fancy about a discussed topic every single day, but writing about myself every day seemed kind of… boring.

The act of a blogger can be and has been compared to that of a diary writer but there is a big difference – you don’t have to write about yourself or the things you did that day. So, writing a blog is quite different, I’d say. The act of writing every day involves a discipline and commitment that I tended to not want to tie myself to.

However, when Charlotte from Stylecartel made me an offer I could not, or more accurately, didn’t want to refuse. After all, whipping up an article about what and when and where I do over a week is still doable, I thought. Keeping me up before bed time, which is already more than late, as you will see, I stuck by it and bring you the “Week with Lira Leirner” including household dramas, fashion making and art shows. In order for you to not get bored, I whacked in a lot of pictures.

DAY ONE

Every morning either the sun or Stuart’s stampede wakes me up as he rushes to work. As my upper eye lid still unglues itself from the lower I intuitively reach for my iPhone and blink at it while I don’t waste my first half hour of the day trying to wake up – I already do some of my work whilst trying to wake up. Good ol’ iPhone. After an hour or so curled up under the duvet having done as much of the “soft” work possible, my arm ventures out of the cave and grabs whichever dress is on top of a heap of unorganized clothes near the bed. I peel myself away from the sheets and stumble down to my office knowing I have real work to do now. The opening sound of the macbook is as strong a catalyser for my awakening as is coffee for others, so I usually manage to get some solid client work done from 8am to around 2pm.

In addition to that I finished off the article about Daisy Dares You for Stylecartel when I came across the strange dilemma of electronic dependency. One of the films looked bad but sounded good, and the other was undecipherable but looked steady. Instead of exasperating at the face of electronic failure, I decided to simply use the sound of the former. I wanted to get ready to go to the market in order to get silk knit jersey for Kristin Knox of Clothes Whiperer’s custom made QR code dress but got tied down with work: the translation editorial from French to English for yet another client. It was interesting because the client is an architecture magazine.

I figured it was already too late to leave the house so I finally created a company page on facebook. I was still deep in the juju when Charlotte came home at 4.30pm and snapped me out of my working trance to remind me that I had, once again, completely forgotten about breakfast and lunch. We had a nice chat over a bowl of porridge then it was back to work.

I restructured the entire Lira Leirner website deciding to create a follow section, excluding a whole collection and adding new content and made a big change – instead of entering a text only list on the first page the landing page now redirects to the shop page directly, allowing a complete overview of all the pieces before deciding which one to learn more about.

At about 5pm Stuart came home and made me a badge to cheer me up as I was getting some serious recovering shopaholic blues.

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The Shopaholic Anonymous group, which consists of me, this badge and Stuart as a supervisor as well as the looming possibility of not making rent after turning freelance was established because of a shoe collection, which is three times as big as what is shown on this picture….

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…and this, a pile of clothes bigger than myself with a full room of floor-to-ceiling shelves still full.

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We both worked until about 9pm – that’s when we realised we had no food in casa, so we managed to rip ourselves away from the hypnotic grip work has on workaholics like us and went for a nice “walk” to the corner shop. For dinner I had plain mozzarellas with fresh tomatoes and some crisps whilst watching “Have I got news for you!” because eating food is the only time we allow ourselves to not work. But of course it was straight back to work after the 20 minutes of BBC iPlayer chuckles. I still had to change every single page of the website via Dreamweaver…

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At around half past midnight I discover Emily of Fashion Foie Gras’ passionate post about 10 being a healthy size for tall women and the ridiculous sizing system in fashion. I started writing a strongly felt comment but decided to blog it and create a poll instead. Finally, at 1.30pm after finishing all pages I went to bed where Stuart was watching a war escape documentary for “research” for his project. I really gotta say, some of these foxy grey-haired old men would have looked good in their heydays! Check out the color coordination of light blue in the stripes of the shirt, his eyes and details of his silk scarf!

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I did some more “soft” work (emails to arrange meetings and interviews I’m having with a designer) and then finally switched off the annoying war documentary and turned the lights off at around 2am but I still spent another hour writing notes about my day into the comic sans ridden notepad in my iPhone for this very article and made sure I didn’t wake Stuart. As I was about to fall asleep at 3:28pm my last thought was whether Alex of Alexloves didn’t like my answers in the interview she did with me, but turns out she was just really busy!

DAY TWO
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Today I wore the t-shirt from the Daisy Dares You goodie bag all day, which I tweeted and added to the lookbook.nu group on flickr. The cut is so comfortable and sexy! After the usual work for major clients for ca. 4 hours interspersed with reading fashion blogs and research for the same client I received some wonderful emails responses about my Daisy Dares You article – one from the head editor of stylecartel and one from the PR company responsible for the event.

Same as yesterday I was meant to go to Lewisham to go to the bank and the fabric shop but then got a call from an old friend who had been trying to arrange to come over for weeks to try the map dress on so I went around the corner to the dry cleaners and had the dress steamed.

We spent a couple of hours reminiscing and catching up, then she tried the dress on which looked stunning as she has a tattoo down her back and the dress is backless. However, as she’s a comfortable sporty type she said she couldn’t breathe because the waist was fitted (which is kind of the point) and joked she wasn’t prepared to suffer for fashion like I am. I loosened the seam but she still didn’t like jt so we had to let it go. I was sad, the dress looked great on her. We had a bit of a banter about my article complaining about non petite dresses and that I’m not making stuff for her size, which made me even more sad because I surely didn’t want to be accused of not creating dresses that can fit anyone fabulous enough to want to wear them no matter what size.

http://blogol.hu/pikz/csodavaro2/RocherRaffaello15pc.jpgI had half an apple and the rest of yesterdays crisps from the same package and shared two Raffaelos with my friend Yuuuummmyyy! I promised myself I’ll make a dress her size with a low cut back from beanbags, my next piece planned for the recycling couture line.

She left at around 5pm by which time Stuart was back. I had to do more work for the big client and then I got a much welcomed surprise in the form of Charlotte knocking on the door and excitedly displaying her latest purchase to join her Myasaki collection: she had bought Ponyo, a story based on the legend of the little mermaid. Stuart was pretending to be a “guy” guy drinking beer and watching a 0-0 hence boring football game whilst I started working on shortening the Volvo Subject60 article for Stylecartel.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmtI0NnGJS2e8A6OBLHdTbQ_m5BDMYzuVk-zDODAxB8LSZBmjv7DLdN0jpi8FuATZ3Yd2-v8Y5AGqLCcrEGrdPbgNZQcD73MoetVL5bcUyQRPRUS1KaG9XS-vWGKJomeLU9nEFcLfcx0Cz/s400/6-ponyo.jpg Image taken from Witneyman Blog

On Twitter bloggers arranged a meeting to happen soon, excited! Once the game was over we watched Ponyo while I was trying to figure out the plug in to upload pictures in my demoted account only to find out I didn’t have the privileges to do so! This meant I had to copy the images over from blogger at the wrong size which made was quite irritating. Ponyo was cute but certainly not my favourite to come out of the amazing Ghibli studio. In fact Stuart said “This film is so sweet it gave me diabetics”. I gave up and sent the Volvo article for approval so I could go to bed time and write diary notes until 1am, which is when I realised I didn’t have dinner but I was too cosy already. Nighty night!

DAY THREE

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8YRaUkpG3nghN0sipAvc0GpR-asMqE8CbMTShb4-tqVH0hwIBn0Pq3knkazanjA8GKqmbpb8y3Eyi3vOHH8tO7frNAwUsdCoaXuqLF2SLa6Sx4G7pa3Du-b9WJGVQ41PwR_cYg2NA3gDI/s1600/kristin1.jpgHad an uncharacteristically long lie in today – got up at 12! I immediately got ready to force myself to go to the market, something I have been dreading and keep pushing further away every day using the reason “work” as if going to the market to get fabric wasn’t work. I’m a recovering shopaholic, so the venturing to go anywhere near shops is a guaranteed way to put me in a very bad mood. However, I had been, without luck, trying to find printers all over London to custom print silk knit jersey for Kristin Knox of Clothes Whisperer’s dress. The stretchiness of silk jersey was really proving to be tricky for any non-sewn in manipulation such as paint to create a coherent pattern. After an onslaught of not requested brainstorming ideas in the form of Stuart’s voice I decided to settle with squared sequins or embroidery, meaning that it would be a feature, and not a pattern.

So I went to the bank to pay in a cheque then straight to the fabric shop, which was bursting with customers as usual. I dwindled my way through the crowd and managed to snatch one of the bitchy self-important saleswomen out between two of her errands only to find out that they didn’t stock silk jersey. Frustrated, I went to the Lewisham market to get fruit, then to M&S for vegetables and chocolate musli for my porridge, then to the pound shop for Tofiffee! I had some Toffiffee on my way home to calm me down, I was not happy with the £10 change the woman had given me in coins at M&S.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqBLNXq1YDCwHYKE2_DR2u92nDzYcJIpf_ODHwcB1EXXDHTeL_aUIhJqZcUNIobuAfTmw-0fh3dfHm4nCFPJQDpNLFFvvotKmsNxxjfCdx98gwfMKbnzUz7tTIMTkny7_t2wvSicwa6gIr/s1600/IMG_1044.JPG

http://winterhouseworldtour.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/toffiffee2.jpgOnce I got home I did some client work and researched a provider for silk knit jersey, which was almost impossible to find!! In my bad mood I got bored of work and Twitter with their “nationalistic, BNP-proud-making chants” so I decided to work on something that didn’t involve the outside world – sewing a men’s shirt. The office was messy so I took my beloved Toyota sewing machine and ironing board to the kitchen where I could use the whole floor to cut the fabric.

I didn’t want to put my housemates off so I figured I’ll include them in the process and made some measurements on my housemate as I still need to get used to men’s clothes! He was the only guy around as Stuart was at work… The process was soothing.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTd2Xi_unbP0lQmi_ZVIfFzGrlc9Ku5QhDy9OrM-KNfEkhkVHDhyphenhyphenfIWKcF5MGwIiMyqgVX6C5YtHx5iH-EBQ5y3QbDXWuuZRp32iB4LjBddtn0zumMGihYw1MoelWVNOb2TBGSwSYbwg9/s1600/IMG_1048.JPG

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMxuFkOiWJ-QjaNZVVlOFxVL04PcZU95MV1ucOOtwlmhBbEIm8Me8gmUFKR9bDIW4snsRNXVTDXYqPod3MtTO0ed1hY-C9hgPvoda2_32HeN48hyWvV74qFTWMgLr6-FOm6VxCG-7qTzT/s1600/IMG_1046.JPG The concept of the shirt was along the lines of the jumpsuit I had previously made – meant to be a mix of smartness and comfort made of check raw silk pleats with suiting fabric cotton navy blue cuff links and a hood! I prepared the pattern and managed to fit pattern just about to use up the rest of the fabric I had. My other housemate was cooking and making me hungry so I had a mozzarella and tomato salad from the shop the other day and a plum, yummy!

I took a break in order to do some client work and answer to more question for a fashion journalist student about why I’m interested in white collar crime, I’m afraid I may have ranted a bit. I went back and finished the hood and the pleats preparation. However, the first side I did turned out quite badly in comparison to the second one. I finished the second one by the time Stuart had come back and had finished making his dinner, so I spent the rest of the evening undoing the pleats – My least favourite job in clothes making ever!

But we watched the Ricky Gervais show and then a British film called “The plot”, which made me realize just how long I’ve been living in the UK for as I recognized most actors. At 3am I had finally finished undoing the pleats and was glad I had used the day to be a designer again, I’ve been a blogger quite solidly lately!

http://ctchannel.files.wordpress.com/2010/02/ricky-gervais-show.jpg

DAY FOUR

There’s not much to report today, except I continued indulging my fashion designer side today. Of course I did the usual client work and as I’m in charge of the house account I had to check the finances for the house as bills and rent were looming and chase everyone up. I had been invited to come along to a vintage fair by Bert and Markus Maverick in Shoreditch but I decided I wouldn’t be much of a welcomed guest at the vintage fair giving that I was a recovering shopaholic and not going to be spending a single pound.

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I got up at 11 and went straight to the kitchen to continue redoing the front pleats. However, once I had finished them I realized I’d made two of the same side so had to re-unmake the pleats AGAIN! I did so whilst watching Ricky Gervais show show then did some client work and emails including answering some more students’ emails. After that I finally paid attention to the pleats and told myself third time lucky! I got the pleats done correctly but they are a little irregular. I finished the rest of the shirt including exciting bits such as the hood and long stripe cufflinks.

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As I spent most of the day in the kitchen I ate quite a lot: several plums, porridge, and some chocolate. I was almost finished by the time Stuart came home and started cooking so I made my favourite meal with the food I had bought yesterday: vegetables! We watched “Have I got news for you” whilst eating and crazily enough, it was I decided to go to bed “early” instead of starting a completely new task.

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DAY FIVE

I had a bad dream and woke up at 9am with the sun streaming into my face, which made me determined to spend some time outside! However, as so often before, I told myself “just a little bit more” and ended up not realizing that I’d spent hours doing client work until suddenly one of my housemates came in asking the name of our landlord as she was talking to British gas on the phone, which is when I realized that I had, once again, missed out on the sun. She then had the cheek to ask me if I’ll be here from 12 to 6 and I grunted and wasn’t happy. I felt like wearing blue that day because that’s how I felt.

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I received a message from Bert asking for a meeting so I walked all the way to the studio as couldn’t afford the bus fare until that cheque I had paid in the other day came through. I later discovered I’d forgotten my wallet anyway, so I’m glad I didn’t waste my time waiting for a bus. I worked on Bert’s blog after his best friend Kristin aka the Clothes Whisperer sent us the log in details and more pics and press. I met an artist from the studios, a lovely woman, who told me she’d buy one of the royal mail bags if they were for sale. Bert was hungry but I didn’t have £ so didn’t want to go eat, but being Bert he convinced me to come along and get invited. I met one of Bert’s friends who gave us a lift to New Cross and liked my name – we had a discussion about how differently people pronounce it in different countries.

In New Cross we met another one of Bert’s friends, a photographer as I later found out. He had a very nice business card and was interesting to talk to but a tad too touchy for my taste.

We found a pub that offered both Thai and “Lira” food. Or in Bert’s words “boring English food”. Despite the fact that the pub was almost empty we waited an hour for the food during which time I did some client work on the phone. I ordered an ommelette with cheese, chips and salad, which was very greasy and overcooked, but I was hungry so I didn’t mind until later in the afternoon when it made me nauseous.

Bert very rightly complained it was my fault that he had to eat shitty Thai food… Sorry, Bert! Next time I’ll just tag along to any Thai restaurant and won’t eat, the way it usually is, I promise. We walked back to the studio where his friend had a look around while I finally located the right place in the HTML template for some of the changes that Bert wanted made.

I got a call from my best friend who is visiting and was coming to see me in Brockley to aforementioned financial situation instead of me coming into town to meet her. My hat received lots if compliments in the Art House Studio and Bert showed me his hat collection of which I loved one particular – a felt brown hat with abstract orange felt flowers. It was so “me” that Bert simply gave it to me! The day was looking up, I was so happy with my new hat! Yay!

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On my way to pick up my best friend I received a text message from Alex of AlexLoves informing me that the interview with me was finally up so checked it out on my iphone as I walked from New Cross to Brockley station. I came across a banana case that lay exactly next to a pile of dog poo. That’s a weird thing to mention, but what are the odds?

As I waited I did some client work on the phone. When we got home I found out that my housemate had been home on time and that British gas had fixed the boiler! I was looking very forward to having a nice hot shower again.

My best friend and I had sooo much to talk about but after a while I started feeling nauseous and she was still sleepy from travelling so I had some chocolate and Fanta, which really helped, and went for a walk in the park before my friend decided she was and needing to follow her body’s command to snuggle up into a bed.

I checked Alex’s blog properly and typed in “Lira Leirner” on google to see where she ranked and I found a feature on me I didn’t know about that had been posted today as well! There was a feature about my collection on Emerging Fervor! What they and Alex had written was so sweet and flattering, any annoyance I had that day were truly smoothened. I was over the moon! I then did lots of client work until around midnight and was very tired, most likely from all the unusual walking my chair potato self had done today – I fell asleep immediately.

DAY SIX

I got woken up by Stuart from a horrid dream involving ants, religion and pearl clad middle aged women drinking from wells full of leaves. Our landlord was coming round so we could sign the contract and mentioned that he had seen my dresses and the website – they seemed really impressed, which was a little surreal. Stuart went to work and I started working on client stuff. I then received an early birthday present from my mother- in- law.

It was a twelve moths subscription to the bible of fashion. It was the https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpz4d5qNKfzLFQqh_FH-98Dc29eETeuJdR3STs8axcJuEJ1j3GDQuu9LSJ-4yhsYEJNejV1KQeNLrz6ejy-qnMvKk6e-EZCV_mNzdxYx1BUXzGC_G8Kz2SoUAIs9t55qlpBVVcc93kzgK2/s400/Picture+1.png
…. resulting in me looking a lot like this:

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I was asked to upload some pictures onto facebook but instead of just uploading the pictures I decided to write a proper blog post about a yummy creme de la crepe place in covent garden. I then did some more client work but less than I would have hoped. I did a lot of computer related necessary work, including adding new pages on my blog – press and dresses.

I came across an article by stylite about branded contact lenses, which prompted me to write another blog post called “When Branding gets out of hand“. I received a package from a friend with a dress as a present that I’d seen on the top floor of Urban Outfitters three months ago (old picture to the right), what an awesome present!

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It reminded me to email my other friend about Refugee Week Fashion Show, and to confirm the press tickets for the Barbican gala for Brazilian film festival – Music and Rhythm for next week. I then had to take on the boring task of house administration and do things such as organize dates with the gardener, British gas, and the fridge guys to fix our fancy fridge that keeps making noises and sort of breaking down as well as some house accounting. I then e-mailed a student dress pictures for their dissertation. This is sounding like a list, but I then did more client work until Stuart came home from dinner with his mum at 11.30pm, making me realize I hadn’t eaten again, so he made me go to the kitchen but as my lazyness gene (only present when it comes to food and cleaning) kicked I simply had yet another porridge. Whilst eating it I got distracted with work again and Stuart had to actually come down after the shower to tell me to go to bed at around 2am.

DAY SEVEN

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After getting up earlier than usual, which allowed me to get some solid client work done from 10am to 2.30pm I made my way to the Shopwork Gallery, sporting my new hat, a Moschino dress and Miu Miu shoes. Unfortunately, I had picked out the absolute worst time to travel on a bus – not only did the “every ten minutes bus” timeframe get seriously blown out of proportion after as I had to wait 25 minutes for a bus, during which time I went to get a stack of chocolate, but it was then also packed with children who were just leaving school. Anybody who knows me knows that I’m something of a childophobe, so this was certainly not an ideal situation for me. On top of that I discovered that my euster card had run out and I had to pay the full fare, which I hate doing. I managed to wedge into a seat after a couple of stations – next to a grumpy old lady who was taking up half my seat despite being as small as me.

Anywho, enjoyed meeting two old friends family friends, discussed the work then went for dinner in a pub that had just opened that week and still smelled of freshly cut wood. Amazing! we talked about why the iPad is useless and how tab water is purer than bottled water, to which I replied “Not here it isn’t”. Sorry, London, but it’s true. They told me about a designer called Heather Lucy, who creates dresses and beautiful designs for physically handicapped people, which I thought was a very interesting concept.

Once back home Stuart watched the Southafrica against Uruguay game, which was without a doubt the most awkward and cringe-y world cup game I had ever seen. They gave a red card to the host nation’s goalie for barely touching the guy? Really not cool. For some reason this set off a wave of frustration and irritation about my work and I needed a big dose of chocolate before going to bed at 1.30am.

DAY EIGHT

I got up late today and was still frustrated about day before. What better way is there to vent your frustration than having a nice bitching session with your housemate over breakfast porridge? It was already 12 when I started with client work and my brain was being pretty slow – we all have these days, right? My friend came over to try on a couple of dresses to choose one to buy. She chose the Green Tree Names dress.

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We went to the Goldsmiths Art Degree show and I wore the dress my other friend had sent me as a present the other day, together with Zara lace up boots, a corset on top, vintage tweed and velvet Yves Saint Laurent blazer, and print stitch black leggings.
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We ran into Bert and his crew in what I like to call the “Squiggly Building”, including the photographer I had met the other day and the beautiful Dhanasun who was wearing a floor length Scottish check skirt.

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Check out the blog post about the degree show here. Went to Hobgoblin Pub afterwards where we kept an eye on the game and ate chips n cheese. I also came across this guy wearing THIS T-shirt next to a sign saying “Who says size doesn’t matter?” Brilliant. And he was so proud and blissfully unaware of the sign.

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Some old flatmates walked in came say “Hi”, which was very awkward. Strangely enough, I got a call from my landlord right then and there and a big drama ensued surrounding housemates who hadn’t signed the contract yet but were in the pub and it was all pretty ugly with yelling and “Can I talk to you for a sec”. I went home very angrily but not angry enough to not appreciate the beautiful sundown that happened that evening.

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When I got home I talked to my mum on skype. Stuart was stuck on train for 30 minutes due to a fatality on the train tracks and had to travel all the way around to a station far away and walk 45 minutes to get home. This isn’t London’s best side. My friend’s invitation to go to Cambridge the following day, where I had studied for two years before moving to London five years ago, was very welcomed and I looked forward to heading home to get an early night’s sleep and wake up to travel to Cambridge in the morning to see the Art show at my old school as well as all my beloved tutors.

I was weighing up the plus and down sides of being a shopaholic in London while doing some client work and answering piled up emails when the nicest finish to a week I could hope for happened: I received a request from Sarah from Sarah’s Scribbles for a custom made Lira Leirner Tea Tattoo dress, which allowed me to go to bed excited about the next day and the coming week, where art, design, fashion and writing as well as hours upon hours of work, forgetful meals and short sleeping spells are surely to fill “The days of Lira Leirner”.

Sunday, May 30, 2010

Wear your Blog - Kristin's QR code maxi dress

A couple of days ago I went to see Kristin, the clothes whisperer, hold a lecture at the instituto marangoni on none other but the 'fashion street' - this is the actual name of the street, I'm not making this up. Due to some lost make up and other lost causes such a very suspicious receptionist who wouldn't tell me where the lecture was being held, I was late, but early enough to see Kristin being unbearably hot, fanning herself with her notes, answering questions from much adoring, apparently shy students, who immediately started discussing amongst themselves the advantages and hierarchies of having a classics literature or fashion degree when writing about fashion - once Kristin was safely out of earshot.

Robert Clayton of Yorkshire Pearls, the maker of wild and intricate bangles, who is working on his first fashion collection due to be unveiled to the world in autumn, was holding Butters, the little Pomeranian dog who is so used to being adored, she doesn't even flinch or follow dog etiquette or procedures of introduction when someone strokes her (and she gets stroked A LOT).



Nice as they are, they allowed me to tag along to a lunch at one of the typical Brick Lane spicy Indian restaurants with fresh modern decor and nicely diffused natural light (I had a water -too early for food!) We then went to the Vintage Market on Brick Lane, where my shopping diet was put to a strain with a perfect blazer to match with my Gucci shoes. Taking a recovering shopaholic to a market where silk and tweed float about in a fraction of their worth, is - painful.


I therefore distracted myself by observing Kristin's attitude, mannerism and style. A cool, laid back character with an acute self-awareness that can be seen in anyone deeply involved with fashion, I'd describe her style (in words) as bohemian chic with an eclectic elegance and as much of a dash of quirkiness as spices can be found in Indian food. My mind started up, working like a rusty old middle aged cart with a heavy load, creaking along a strange path full of stones and dust clouding the path itself, making the images and impressions difficult to depict, yet coming out at the other end of the road with a result. So, I can't really explain or remember the specifics of my train of thought due to my brain's cloudy and rusty ways, but I can explain the results and what happened thence after.



Luckily, as we were looking after the stall for Bert's friend and sitting on the floor until he came back from a break, it transpired that Kristin was quite game for having me make a dress for her. I was glad because some people simply inspire me but I never know if they actually like my style, especially Kristin who has so far politely avoided the topic of my clothing line, with much understanding from my parts, considering she has been working with one of the biggest fashion geniuses since Coco Chanel broke the male dominated corsetted fashion industry with her wearable, comfortable and gorgeous style... look at me trailing off. I'm of course talking about Alexander McQueen, whose death shook us all and, I'm quite sure, elevated him from genius to legend (read her brilliant book - "Alexander McQueen - genius of a generation")

The shape and cut of the dress was the easiest to decide on. A figure - hugging, floor length, deep v-neck, pullover dress, with an A-line skirt, front darts and gathered straps crisscrossed at back to enhance the comfortable, elegant yet exposed and sexy back, having the skirt backside cut fuller for a hint of regal quality. The material I want to go with is silk jersey, which would allow the dress to combine some of Kristin's characteristics and transform them into a dress: jersey for comfort in herself, silk for luxury, pullover for easy going-ness, exposed back for a big dash of non - obvious sexiness, a maxi dress for abundance of material use, and figure hugging to visually convey the balance of exposure and concealment of her personal self. There were still some characteristics missing, which, following my humble observation, seemed to be too big a part of her character to leave out, and which I hoped to include in the choice of print. I did a quick sketch of the cut and Kristin approved, whew.


I did some research and came across a really gorgeous Paisley print, which I knew would make a great dress and showed it to her, only to almost immediately realise that it had absolutely nothing to do with her and that I had forgotten what I was doing. I still like the fabric although it's not really my style, but it was a bit random and I hoped that Kristin hadn't actually seen the suggestion as I was a bit embarrassed by the non-thought through enthusiasm I'd shown over a random pattern. Unfortunately she had seen it. OK, head down, moving on. Characteristics that I still saw missing were individuality, self-promotion and brand awareness, the internet and technology, and most importantly, a true abundance of intelligence, wit, charm and academic knowledge.



At that point, Kristin posted a link to an interview with her on Karena's Blog called My New Best Friends and I particularly picked up on this paragraph: "The Clothes Whisperer is a style chameleon but her wardrobe staples have to be soft, jersey and comfortable. Being tall and thin with dark coloring, almost anything suits her but her favorite throw on would be something neutral, nude and white shades and the girl just loves to layer."

Obviously that made me quite happy as I'd hit most of these points. Just to be sure, I confirmed the colors, which is when it hit me how to incorporate most of the rest of the characteristics I'd observed. A while back Stuart and I discussed a method of QR scanning and the fabulous patterns this results into, as well as the interesting interaction and individuality that is achieved through the involvement of technology and information as well as the knowledge that it is there to have but only of use to those who know - on print. Offering a conversation piece, it would include the individuality and disclosure of her blog link within the pattern and her body, meaning that she would be WEARING her blog. Furthermore, the pattern is relatively similar to a pair of leggings (of course by Alexander McQueen) that I know she already owns and has worn at the signing of her book at Material (check out Bert's bangle!)


Picture by Markus Maverick, taken from Kristin's blog post "Book signing... THANK YOU"

After confirming her colors, I decided to go for an off-white /cream base silk jersey with the hexadecimal color 999999 gray for the pattern itself. Now I'm waiting to see if Kristin likes the concept of the pattern and confirms it. Explaining why I chose it in the limitation 140 of characters, I figured, might be open to misunderstandings. This is the ACTUAL pattern and code. Anyone will be able to scan it, which automatically directs to her blog (try it out with your iphone).




First of all, I started with creating a dress out of cotton jersey with the same measurements in order to ensure the fall of the dress itself worked:




Images by Jemma Austin

I then spent a lot of time researching the correct base fabric and trying out different ways to achieve the print. As it's jersey silk, nobody would agree to actually have it printed so the only solution was to create the print myself. I could go with either screen printing, which would be difficult due to it's limited spacing for the fabric (more suitable to shirts and paintings) or print it one by one with a stamp - which is what I did. However, actually finding the right color pure silk jersey was a lot more difficult than I had aniticipated and I ended up finding it only in the USA, which meant that the import tax was about a quarter of the overal price which was already painful. I'm not going to be tacky and put a price down, but let me just say it cost half my monthly rent.

As I was aiming to achieve a heavy, richly thick look I had to double layer the silk. As it took so long to find the right fabric I had time to think things over and I realized several things: The pattern, as funky as it is, would provide a piece for an evening look or a rock chick under layer if teamed up with some leather. As Kristin had pointed out, she likes soft colors, so in order to maximize the dress to its fullest I decided to make it into a reversible dress, which would allow a day to night piece and started searching for fabric which was quirky enough on its own to suit Kristin's color scheme and dress sense but also wouldn't detract from the "main" attraction. I came across a Missoni-like knit in light green - blue hues with a lovely sheen and a texture that enhanced that of the silk jersey.









I added a Lira Leirner feature - the real freshwater pearl several layers cluster at the shoulders, of which I unfortunately forgot to take a picture.

When it hangs, it's of course not visible at the weight sucks towards gravity, but the width of the bottom is 1.5 metres across and stretched over an entire table - almost visible in this image:



Once I was satisfied, I ordered the custom made stamp which cost more than usual due to its size. I also had to find a stamp base that was specific for fabric print and offstanding from the base so the oversized stamp would fit as there was absolutely no stamp base big enough. Stuart kindly found this for me and apparently there was only a choice of five colours, all not applicable except from the black one, so I had to abandon the gray idea and simply aim for a softer print due to the hand printed technique.

This of course meant that before each and every single print I had to pass through twelve positions in order to cover the whole stamp, then carefully place the tamp alongside my trusty metal ruler, slowly place it on the material and then stand up in order to press the stamp down with the full force of my body, which I had to hold for at least a minute. Each impression took me three to four minutes - which doesn't sound like a lot until you realize you're creating a full body over two metre dress ca. one metre across. As this was so labour instensive, I had to take a break after every ten prints made - it was a lot like doing sit ups, except with my entire body.



After many, many, MANY restless nights and uncoubtable hours of situps - I printed at night as it was a quiet endeavour and I needed a lot of space - I was finally finished.



I finished the dress in between the mayhem of creating twenty pieces before London Fashion Week as I wanted Kristin to wear the dress for fashion week and I had to speed up my process as she had a small window in which to meet me as she was flitting between New York, Milan, London and Paris as well as Greece to finish working on her second book. I managed to find her for half an hour in a Starbucks preparing for an interview with Naomi Campbell at a Dolce and Gabbana party in her honour and I sighed a heavy sigh of relief when she tried it on and it fitted her like liquid. But that was about as much joy as I could get out of the meeting as the entire focus was on the of course much more exciting Naomi and D&G. How can a custom made, hand printed silk dress from a small designer compete with that?



There wasn't much time beyond that try-on, through which Kristin had her head fully concentrated on work, of course. I also gave Emily from Fashion Foie Gras a dress, which I wanted to give her after having seen her model a piece for a Style Whispering session.

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Image by Terrence Webb the Fashionographer

Wrinkled ivory satin, low back classic cut - it all screamed of Emily. I thought of her while I made the dress and because I have a weak spot for my muses, I couldn't resist and gave it to the inspiration of the dress as a present. I hope she wears it one day.







Minutes after handing over the most labour and love intensive, not to speak of the most expensive dress I've ever made, Kristin's pomeranian Butters quickly found her way into creating the dress that cost me love, sweat and tears over uncountable hours as a pillow whilst wearing her very own chanel inspired Lira Leirner tweed dog jacket.



I've chosen a buttery tweed with cashmere lining and a navy blue contrast. I purposedly created a light yet warm piece that wouldn't weight Butters down too much - she seemed the most happy of the three about her new present.


The making of a Butters Chanel coat







It's now four months later and I've yet to see any of the three fashionistas but especially Kristin wear it, take a picture of it or mention it in any way so I'm glad I have at least managed to catch a sneaky couple of pictures on my iPhone. And I guess that's the end of this story so far... now it's in someone else's hands. Hopefully, you'll see me update this post once again one day.